See this post for the story behind the sampler.
If you’re looking to make this lovely cuff bracelet, please be aware that this is NOT A BEGINNER PROJECT. I’m assuming that you’re already familiar with all basic crochet stitches and skills, and that you have at least some experience making lace. I wrote the pattern AFTER finishing the piece, so if you need to fudge the last stitch or two in a row, don’t be surprised.
If you’re looking to make this lovely cuff bracelet, please be aware that this is NOT A BEGINNER PROJECT. I’m assuming that you’re already familiar with all basic crochet stitches and skills, and that you have at least some experience making lace. I wrote the pattern AFTER finishing the piece, so if you need to fudge the last stitch or two in a row, don’t be surprised.
Thread: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Size 10 in Ivory
Hook: 1.5mm metal lace hook
Notions: 2 small buttons, sewing needle, and matching ivory sewing thread
Hook: 1.5mm metal lace hook
Notions: 2 small buttons, sewing needle, and matching ivory sewing thread
Begin with a multiple of 8 +1, you want the base chain to be
enough to reach around your wrist.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st
across. Turn
Row 2: Ch 6, *skip 3 sts, dc2tog in next st, ch 3 and skip 3
sts, dc in next st, ch 3* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Turn
Row 3: Ch5, *in the top of the dc2tog from prev row (dc2tog,
ch 3, dc2tog), then ch 2 and dc in the top of the dc from the prev row, ch2* Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st *(ch1 + dc) four times into the
ch 3 space between the two dc2tog sts (shell made) in the previous row. ch 1
and sc in the top of the next dc from prev row* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.
Turn.
Row 5. Ch 5, *in the center ch1 space of the shell made in
the prev row (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc), ch 2, dc in the sc of the prev row, ch 2* Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, *dc in the first dc of the shell, ch 1, dc in
the first ch 1 sp of the shell, ch 1, dc in the 2nd dc of the shell,
ch 1, dc in the 2nd ch 1 sp of the shell, ch 1, dc in the 3rd
dc of the shell, ch 1, dc2tog over the next ch2 spaces, ch1* Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next dc, ch, dc, and ch sts. *In
the dc that is the top of the shell (sc, ch3, sc) to make a picot. Sc in each
of the next ch, dc, and ch sts. Sc2tog over the next 2 plain dc sts, skipping
over the ch, dc2tog, and ch sts. Sc in each of the next ch, dc, and ch sts.* Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 8: ch 4, dc in same st. *ch 7. In picot st from prev row
(dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc)* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 9: ch1, sc in same st. *(4dc, ch1, 4dc) all in next ch 7
sp. Sc in each ch 1 space between the dc’s in the picot* Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 10: ch 5, *In ch 1 sp at top of loop (puff st, ch 2,
puff st), ch 3, dc2tog over the sc’s from prev row, ch 3* Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 11: Ch 1, *4sc in each ch 3 sp, and (2sc, ch3, 2sc) into
eac ch2 sp between puff sts.
Finishing: turn your work 90 degrees and working back towards Row 1, add a row of sc along the edge of your lace. You may add as many rows as needed on each edge in order to make room to sew on buttons and create button holes.
To make button holes: Hold your button up to the work and measure how many sc’s wide your buttons are, and call this number W. Determine how you will space your buttons. After an initial row or more of sc sts on the edge of your lace, sc in each st across, stopping where you want the button, and ch W sts. Skip an equal number of sts, and continue to sc across. You’ll need to add an additional row of sc’s on top of your button hole row. For this row, sc in each sc, and W+1 sc’s in each ch sp. Fasten off.
I like to add a dot of fray-check onto any place where the thread is knotted or tied in, just to make sure it doesn’t get away, and then I weave in my ends.
BLOCK AND STARCH your lace. Did I mention that you should block and starch this??
You could make this longer and wear it as a choker, and I think it would be a lovely gift for a bride-to-be!
Finishing: turn your work 90 degrees and working back towards Row 1, add a row of sc along the edge of your lace. You may add as many rows as needed on each edge in order to make room to sew on buttons and create button holes.
To make button holes: Hold your button up to the work and measure how many sc’s wide your buttons are, and call this number W. Determine how you will space your buttons. After an initial row or more of sc sts on the edge of your lace, sc in each st across, stopping where you want the button, and ch W sts. Skip an equal number of sts, and continue to sc across. You’ll need to add an additional row of sc’s on top of your button hole row. For this row, sc in each sc, and W+1 sc’s in each ch sp. Fasten off.
I like to add a dot of fray-check onto any place where the thread is knotted or tied in, just to make sure it doesn’t get away, and then I weave in my ends.
BLOCK AND STARCH your lace. Did I mention that you should block and starch this??
You could make this longer and wear it as a choker, and I think it would be a lovely gift for a bride-to-be!
Would you like to say it is British English or American English, as i am not English native, i might not understand the pattern.
ReplyDeleteThank you in advance. Your pattern is very nice.
Can you please provide some clarification for row 8? I'm following the instructions, but it isn't turning out right.
ReplyDeleteYou're using the ch7 to jump and create a big loop between the picot (ch3 loops) fromt he previous round. Into each of those little loops you're doing a dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc.
Deletenice! thanks for sharing!
ReplyDelete