See this post for the story behind the sampler.
If you’re looking to make this lovely cuff bracelet, please be aware that this
is
NOT A BEGINNER PROJECT. I’m assuming that you’re already familiar with all
basic crochet stitches and skills, and that you have at least some experience
making lace. I wrote the pattern AFTER finishing the piece, so if you need to
fudge the last stitch or two in a row, don’t be surprised.
Thread: Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Cotton Size 10 in Ivory
Hook: 1.5mm metal lace hook
Notions: 2 small buttons, sewing needle, and matching ivory sewing thread
Begin with a multiple of 8 +1, you want the base chain to be
enough to reach around your wrist.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st
across. Turn
Row 2: Ch 6, *skip 3 sts, dc2tog in next st, ch 3 and skip 3
sts, dc in next st, ch 3* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Turn
Row 3: Ch5, *in the top of the dc2tog from prev row (dc2tog,
ch 3, dc2tog), then ch 2 and dc in the top of the dc from the prev row, ch2* Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st *(ch1 + dc) four times into the
ch 3 space between the two dc2tog sts (shell made) in the previous row. ch 1
and sc in the top of the next dc from prev row* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.
Turn.
Row 5. Ch 5, *in the center ch1 space of the shell made in
the prev row (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc), ch 2, dc in the sc of the prev row, ch 2* Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, *dc in the first dc of the shell, ch 1, dc in
the first ch 1 sp of the shell, ch 1, dc in the 2nd dc of the shell,
ch 1, dc in the 2nd ch 1 sp of the shell, ch 1, dc in the 3rd
dc of the shell, ch 1, dc2tog over the next ch2 spaces, ch1* Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next dc, ch, dc, and ch sts. *In
the dc that is the top of the shell (sc, ch3, sc) to make a picot. Sc in each
of the next ch, dc, and ch sts. Sc2tog over the next 2 plain dc sts, skipping
over the ch, dc2tog, and ch sts. Sc in each of the next ch, dc, and ch sts.* Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 8: ch 4, dc in same st. *ch 7. In picot st from prev row
(dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc)* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 9: ch1, sc in same st. *(4dc, ch1, 4dc) all in next ch 7
sp. Sc in each ch 1 space between the dc’s in the picot* Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 10: ch 5, *In ch 1 sp at top of loop (puff st, ch 2,
puff st), ch 3, dc2tog over the sc’s from prev row, ch 3* Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row. Turn.
Row 11: Ch 1, *4sc in each ch 3 sp, and (2sc, ch3, 2sc) into
eac ch2 sp between puff sts.
Finishing: turn your work 90 degrees and working back towards Row 1, add a row
of sc along the edge of your lace. You may add as many rows as needed on each
edge in order to make room to sew on buttons and create button holes.
To make button holes: Hold your button up to the work and measure how many sc’s
wide your buttons are, and call this number W. Determine how you will space
your buttons. After an initial row or more of sc sts on the edge of your lace,
sc in each st across, stopping where you want the button, and ch W sts. Skip an
equal number of sts, and continue to sc across. You’ll need to add an
additional row of sc’s on top of your button hole row. For this row, sc in each
sc, and W+1 sc’s in each ch sp. Fasten off.
I like to add a dot of fray-check onto any place where the thread is knotted or
tied in, just to make sure it doesn’t get away, and then I weave in my ends.
BLOCK AND STARCH your lace. Did I mention that you should block and starch
this??
You could make this longer and wear it as a choker, and I think it would be a lovely gift for a bride-to-be!